Thursday, December 6, 2007

life and death


each of us was born. somewhere, on some day all of our lives start. for my mom, that somewhere was chestnut hill in philadelphia, pennsylvania. and that day was november 26, 1941. though the united states had yet to join world war II, our involvement was imminent, and so my grandfather, being in the navy, was living on a submarine somewhere in the atlantic ocean, waiting. he was 28. and my grandmother was living in a room on the 3rd floor of a house behind an episcopalian church (where my grandfather's mother's cousin was the bishop?), waiting to give birth to her first child. she was 19 years old.

her name is nadine. nadine was raised in norman, oklahoma, a poor farm girl. her father died when she was nine and she was soon moved to pampa, texas by her widowed mom. (side note: she never forgave her mother for this move). as i understand it, pampa was even more rural and economically depressed than norman. had it not been for the impending war and my grandfather's involvement in it, i have no doubt that my grandparents would have remained in texas to raise their family. however, the decisions made by leaders of countries half a world away set in motion a different reality for my young grandparents. and so it was that my grandmother, presumably on her way to the eastern seaboard to see my grandfather, gave birth to my mother in chestnut hill, pennsylvania. it is said that my grandfather, john henry jemison, made it to chestnut hill to meet his daughter only once. less than 2 weeks after my mom's birth the japanese bombed pearl harbor and the united states was fully involved in world war II, taking john deep undersea for years, only to see his daughter in pictures.

nadine and carol, my mom, stayed in chestnut hill for three months. after that the two travelled the country. they stayed in connecticut for a time and san diego, briefly. mostly, they lived in texas. eventually, the war ended, my grandparents were reunited, my mom finally met her dad, the three became four, the four moved to california, the four became five, and life progressed, as it so often does. for my mom, life included college, teaching, marriage, children, separation from my father, the death of my father, retirement; happiness, sadness, laughter, tears, hugs, kisses, joy, depression, loss, love, travel, music, books, culture, holidays with family, learning, building, finances, new cars, car accidents, change, stability. all the ingredients that go into making a life were there for my mom. her life took her many places, but it had not taken her back to philadelphia.

so it was when i announced that i would be driving across country and back this fall. since her retirement, my mom has done a lot of traveling. it only made sense, then, that she meet up with me somewhere along the way. we initially discussed her flying out to chicago, but the timing didn't work out. then i suggested philadelphia, she said she had been thinking the same thing, and a plan was made. wanting to see more of pennsylvania than just philadelphia, she met up with me in pittsburgh (on the west side of the state) and drove across with me to philadelphia (on the eastern side).

on the way to philadelphia we saw a town abandoned by the world. braddock, pennsylvania sits southeast of pittsburgh. once a booming mining town, it is now in shambles with, seemingly, no resources or infrastructure. the buildings are in disrepair, most of them empty, the businesses are all closed. however, it is not a ghost town. people still live there. a bus going to and from pittsburgh stops there. but it is certainly a town forgotten.

we saw fall-colored trees for miles. we saw snow. we saw harrisburg, the state capital, and marveled at its quaintness. we saw amish country and farmer's markets. we saw horse-drawn carriages and ate shoofly pie.

and then, on our third day together, we made it to philadelphia, the birthplace of our nation and the birthplace of my mom. the historical sites were interesting, in a very touristy kind of way. seeing places like betsy ross' house and independence hall begs the question, are seeing, hearing, touching, and breathing in necessary components to a complete education? can one fully understand revolutionary times without seeing the delaware river? regardless, we more fully enjoyed our visits to eastern state penitentiary and the ben franklin institute of science.

but one night, around 8:30 or 9:00, we found our way to chestnut hill. not knowing the best way to get there by car, we headed north on broad street and kept going and going and going, passing temple university and then temple university hospital. the further north we got, the sketchier the scenery. by the time we finally turned off of broad street, the buildings were mostly abandoned, with bars over windows when they weren't already broken out. but then, as we made our way northeast the houses started getting nicer and more lived-in, and cute little businesses started popping up here and there. by the time we were on germantown avenue, we were in the midst of wealth. germantown avenue winds its way uphill in the direction of chestnut hill. locally owned boutiques line the cobblestone street. large estates reside on the tree-lined streets directly off of germantown avenue. and at the top of the germantown is chestnut hill.

chestnut hill hospital, where my mom was born, was easy to find, as it was just past the shops on germantown. a small hospital still in operation, it has clearly had few modifications to its outside since my mom was born there. there was a more modern building built sometime after the war, and electric signs and lighting that no doubt did not exist in 1941. but behind the main building were a couple of small houses that now served as offices, but probably housed the doctors at one point. we got out of the car and i took a few pictures of my mom in front of the hospital sign, a document of her first visit to the place of her birth, nearly 66 years prior.

then, with the help of my sister, who was on the phone with us while also searching the internet for directions, we found the episcopalian church where my mom was baptized. and behind the church, the house where my grandmother lived in a room on the third floor. there we were, where my mom's life started. somewhere, on some day.

and at another somewhere, on another some day (this some day being two days after our visit to chestnut hill), my mom's father, john henry jemison, died. my mom and i were still in philadelphia. her sisters called and told her that it was going to be any minute. they called back about 30 minutes later and told her that he was gone. he was 94 years old. nearly sixty-six years previous he had gone to philadelphia to visit his wife and meet his daughter. his daughter was back and he was gone. life and death. somewhere, on some day.

Monday, November 12, 2007

sweet home chicago


I am sitting atop the roof of my cousin’s condo in Chicago, Illinois. There is a slight breeze and church bells chiming, both coming from the south. My view is of downtown Chicago: Sears Tower, the Hancock Building, countless skyscrapers between the two in this birthplace of the skyscraper. My time in Chicago is nearly over.

My cousin, Bryan, lives west of downtown. Only a couple of miles. A walk and a half, as i learned the other day. My legs are still feeling that walk. Not because i’ve never walked before and not because it’s a treacherous walk with great hills or stairs to climb. The walk was relatively flat. But the combination of having sat in a car for 4 days and the amount of walking around that i had done earlier in the day led to the soreness i am now experiencing. Like my time in Chicago, this too shall pass.

There is a beautiful brick church to my left, a block away. As it’s Monday night, the church is empty. A lone car is parked in front, but their destination is no doubt a different place. Any which way i turn my head from here i see city. City pouring out of city pouring out of city. A garbage truck is on its rounds, though it’s after 6pm. Other than that the only sounds i hear are passing cars.

Bryan’s condo sits in the neighborhood known as River West. His building is a renovated industrial warehouse converted into condos, like so many older buildings in large cities are these days. It has maintained some of the industrial charm, with diamond plating in the elevator, a tall chain link fence with barbed wire guards the residents’ parking lot, exposed wiring and pipes in the lobby. The lobby has a sweet smell, like something is baking in the oven. The “L” train (blue line, if i’m not mistaken) passes by a few streets north of here.

Chiacgo offers a lot to do, especially for tourists. Especially for tourists with money. I am not one of those tourists, so i was displeased with walking around Michigan Ave. and its endless stores with high-end merchandise. But yesterday offered a taste of Chicago that i am glad to not have missed. Dim Sum in Chinatown for breakfast with Bryan. The Art Institute of Chicago featuring Cezanne, Dali, Degas, Max Ernst, Matta, Gauguin, Van Gogh, Juan Gris, Paul Klee (i loved his piece, Fleeing Ghost), Monet, Manet, Man Ray, Henri Matisse, Renoir, Rodin. I found the most breathless to be A Sunday on La Grande Jatte by Georges Seurat (you wouldn’t believe how big it is), The Old Guitarist by Pablo Picasso, and Georges Braque’s Landscape at La Ciotat. The Art Institute is known as the Louvre of the U.S. Never been to the Louvre, but oh man. Dinner with Molly in Andersonville was amazing and perfect and delicious French-Algerian cuisine. Drinks and live blues at Blues Chicago was that proverbial cherry on the sundae that Sunday, with Molly getting hit on by the guitarist from the band even though he is a grandfather of six. His name’s Chuck, by the way.

And that’s how you do Chicago. I’m off in the morning, so to bed go i.

Tuesday, October 16, 2007

the first

i've never blogged before. well, that's not totally true. i suppose i have blogged before on myspace, but myspace is some alternate reality that bears no resemblance to actual happenings or human interactions, so i feel safe in calling this the first. in addition, this is the first blog from my travels. if you don't know, i've packed up my car and taken to the road, equipped with a few articles or clothing, more books than i can possibly read in three months time, the essential toiletries, a couple cameras, my bike, mild apprehension, spicy excitement, sweet emotion, and salty potato chips.

don't be jealous.

my first stop landed me in tualatin, oregon (about 19 miles outside of portland, the trip's place of origin). apparently alternator belts are not supposed to be shredded. however, cabbage and cheese and good when shredded. six hundred dollars later, i was on the road, headed for humbolt county, california, where crow and fidget (my first travel partners) spend a few months every year. making it to eureka and our sleeping quarters for the night by twelve a.m., the first day was completed with only a minor, very expensive bump in the road.

day two was wonderful. spike's house, where we stayed the night, was a party in the morning. eve made breakfast, crow made coffee, fidget and spike caught up, which gave me a glimpse into the world that is humbolt county, ali showed pictures of queeruption, brooke bounced in with the energy that i imagine can only be generated from living in such a sustainable, off-the-grid kind of place, and i took it all in. i hope my quietness didn't appear rude. i truly appreciated every moment of my brief stay there, and especially appreciated the hospitality. after breakfast i took crow to garberville (gawbawille, if you're german) and would have spent the afternoon enjoying that quaint little town if i didn't have such a long drive ahead. drive drive drive. about ten p.m. i made in to san luis obispo (slo) and had dinner with my dear friend, smead. after sleeping on his couch, i took in some of the changes in slo that have occurred since i left in 2001, and then took off for l.a.

and here i am, in l.a., at a cafe with pretty good coffee, art on the walls by local artists, and only one bike parked out front (mine). in a way, l.a. is part of my journey. it is hard to consider it as such though, since i know so many people, and spent about 20 total years here. ah well, i guess i'll have to wait and see what is to be discovered for me in l.a.